Pigments, Color Theory & PMU Equipment Questions Answered

From choosing the right pigment and understanding healed colour to selecting devices and needles, find practical answers from industry experts.

Pigment Questions

With over 30 years of pigment manufacturing experience, we've answered thousands of questions from permanent makeup artists around the world. Explore expert insights on pigment selection, healed results, colour theory, retention, and more.

Your PMU Pigment Questions Answered by the Manufacturer

What is the best pigment for powder brows?

The best pigment for powder brows depends on the client's skin tone, desired healed result, and the technique being performed. Pat Shibley, manufacturer of Micro-Pigments, recommends pigment selection based on technique first, then customized to the individual client. In many cases, soft powder brow procedures are better suited to inorganic pigments, because they tend to heal with softer, more natural-looking results and offer excellent long-term colour stability. For hairstroke procedures, including microblading and machine hairstrokes, hybrid pigments are often preferred as they can provide greater definition and colour intensity while maintaining natural healed results.

Ultimately, no single pigment is right for every client. Understanding how different pigment types behave in the skin is key to achieving predictable, long-lasting healed results.

Browse inorganic pigments - SIGNATURE COLLECTION

Browse hybrid pigments - PIXEL & STROKE COLLECTION or MICROBLADE CREME COLLECTION

Why do some PMU pigments turn grey over time?

PMU pigments can appear grey over time for several reasons, including implantation depth, skin undertones, sun exposure, saturation technique, and the pigment formulation itself. One of the most common causes is improper depth. When pigment is implanted too deeply, the healed colour can appear cooler or greyer than intended. Over-saturation of the skin or excessive passes through the same area can also influence how a pigment heals and ages over time.

Pigment formulation plays a significant role in long-term colour stability. Rather than relying on artists to manually mix warm modifiers or adjust colours to compensate for future colour changes, professionally balanced pigments are designed with the proper colour balance from the start. These pre-modified formulations help support more predictable healed results and reduce the risk of unwanted grey or ashy tones as the pigment ages.

Pat Shibley, manufacturer of Micro-Pigments, recommends working with professionally balanced, pre-modified pigments rather than relying on artists to add warmth or manually adjust colours to compensate for future colour changes. When balanced pigments are paired with proper depth and saturation, brows are more likely to heal true to colour and fade naturally over time rather than shifting towards grey or ashy tones.

Recommendations:

Best pre-modified microblading pigments: Microblade Creme' Collection

Best stable brow pigments: Signature Collection

What is the difference between organic and inorganic PMU pigments?

Both organic and inorganic pigments have an important place in permanent makeup. The best choice depends on the procedure, technique, and desired healed result.

Organic pigments typically provide brighter, more vibrant colours and higher colour saturation, making them well suited for procedures such as lips and some eyeliner applications where stronger colour intensity is desired.

Inorganic pigments generally heal softer and more naturally in the skin, which is why they are often preferred for powder brow procedures. For hairstroke techniques, including microblading and machine hairstrokes, many artists choose hybrid pigments to achieve a balance between natural healed results and crisp stroke definition.

Pat Shibley recommends selecting pigments based on the technique being performed rather than taking a one-size-fits-all approach. Understanding the strengths of organic, inorganic, and hybrid pigments helps artists achieve more predictable healed results.

Recommendation

Gain a better understanding of pigments & how they behave in the skin - Color Through The Skin Online Course

How long do PMU pigments last in the skin?

The longevity of PMU pigments depends on the type of pigment used, the procedure performed, the client's skin, and the artist's technique.

Different pigment formulations fade at different rates. Inorganic pigments often soften and fade more gradually over time, while some organic pigments may retain their colour intensity longer. Factors such as skin type, sun exposure, skincare products, implantation depth, and saturation can also influence how long pigment remains visible in the skin.

Rather than focusing on a specific timeframe, artists should understand how different pigment types are designed to age and fade. Selecting the appropriate pigment for the procedure and desired healed result is one of the most important factors in achieving predictable long-term outcomes.

Which Micro-Pigments collection is best for microblading?

The Microblade Crème Collection was specifically developed for microblading procedures. Its creamy, non-drying consistency helps pigment stay on the blade longer while providing smooth implantation and predictable healed results. The shades are pre-balanced to reduce the need for colour modification and simplify pigment selection.

The Pixel & Stroke Collection can also be used for microblading and was designed to perform across both manual and machine techniques. With a versatile range of shades and a balanced formulation, it is well suited for microblading, machine hairstrokes, pixel shading, and combination brow procedures. Artists who offer multiple brow techniques often appreciate the flexibility of using a single pigment collection across different methods.

Do you recommend adding warmth to pigments to prevent them from turning grey?

Not necessarily. Pat Shibley recommends focusing on selecting a properly balanced pigment rather than automatically adding warmth. Professionally formulated pigments are designed with colour balance in mind. Grey healed results are often related to depth, saturation, technique, or pigment selection rather than a lack of added warmth.

Which pigments are best for hairstroke brows?

Hybrid pigments are often well suited to hairstroke techniques because they provide a balance of colour intensity and natural healed results.

Pat Shibley recommends hybrid pigments for many hairstroke procedures, including microblading and machine hairstrokes, as they can help create crisp stroke definition while maintaining a natural appearance after healing.

Recomendations

Pixel & Stroke Collection

Microblade Creme Collection

Color Theory Questions

Pat Shibley answers some of the most common PMU colour theory questions and shares insights into the mistakes that often lead to unwanted healed results.

Why do brows heal red?

Brows can heal red or develop a reddish appearance over time for several reasons, including pigment selection, skin undertones, implantation depth, and the pigment formulation itself.

One common cause is the use of pigments that contain colourants with different fade-out rates. As the tattoo ages, some colour components may fade more quickly than others. If the cooler components disappear first, the remaining warmer pigments can become more visible, resulting in a red, orange, or pink appearance.

Red healed brows can also occur when a pigment is not well suited to the client's skin, or when pigment is implanted too shallow into the skin.

Pat Shibley recommends selecting professionally balanced pigment formulations that are designed to fade more uniformly over time. Combined with proper pigment selection and implantation technique, this helps support more predictable healed colour and reduces the likelihood of unwanted colour shifts.

Why do some PMU pigments turn grey over time?

PMU pigments can appear grey over time for several reasons, including implantation depth, skin undertones, sun exposure, saturation technique, and the pigment formulation itself. One of the most common causes is improper depth. When pigment is implanted too deeply, the healed colour can appear cooler or greyer than intended. Over-saturation of the skin or excessive passes through the same area can also influence how a pigment heals and ages over time.

Pigment formulation plays a significant role in long-term colour stability. Rather than relying on artists to manually mix warm modifiers or adjust colours to compensate for future colour changes, professionally balanced pigments are designed with the proper colour balance from the start. These pre-modified formulations help support more predictable healed results and reduce the risk of unwanted grey or ashy tones as the pigment ages.

Pat Shibley, manufacturer of Micro-Pigments, recommends working with professionally balanced, pre-modified pigments rather than relying on artists to add warmth or manually adjust colours to compensate for future colour changes. When balanced pigments are paired with proper depth and saturation, brows are more likely to heal true to colour and fade naturally over time rather than shifting towards grey or ashy tones.

Recommendations:

Best pre-modified microblading pigments: Microblade Creme' Collection

Best stable brow pigments: Signature Collection

How does skin affect healed colour?

The skin plays a significant role in how PMU pigments heal and appear over time. Factors such as skin tone, undertone, texture, thickness, oil production, sun exposure, and previous procedures can all influence the final healed result.

No pigment heals exactly the same on every client. A colour that heals beautifully on one person may appear warmer, cooler, softer, or more saturated on another. This is why pigment selection should always be based on both the client's skin characteristics and the desired outcome.

Understanding how skin interacts with pigment is one of the most important aspects of achieving predictable, long-lasting healed results.

Learn more about how color heals in the skin - Color Through The Skin Online

How long do PMU pigments last in the skin?

The longevity of PMU pigments depends on the type of pigment used, the procedure performed, the client's skin, and the artist's technique.

Different pigment formulations fade at different rates. Inorganic pigments often soften and fade more gradually over time, while some organic pigments may retain their colour intensity longer. Factors such as skin type, sun exposure, skincare products, implantation depth, and saturation can also influence how long pigment remains visible in the skin.

Rather than focusing on a specific timeframe, artists should understand how different pigment types are designed to age and fade. Selecting the appropriate pigment for the procedure and desired healed result is one of the most important factors in achieving predictable long-term outcomes.

Why do brows heal grey?

Brows can heal grey for a variety of reasons, including pigment selection, implantation depth, skin undertones, technique, and the way the pigment formulation fades over time.

One of the most common causes is pigment being implanted too deeply into the skin. When this occurs, the healed colour can appear cooler, darker, or greyer than intended. Over-saturation of the skin and repeated passes through the same area can also contribute to unwanted colour changes.

Pigment formulation plays an important role as well. If a pigment contains colourants that fade at different rates, the remaining colour components may become more visible as the tattoo ages, resulting in a cooler or greyer appearance.

Pat Shibley teaches that grey healed brows are often attributed to a lack of warmth in the pigment, when in reality factors such as depth, saturation, skin characteristics, and pigment design are frequently the underlying cause. Choosing a professionally balanced pigment system and using proper implantation techniques can help support more predictable healed colour and long-term stability.

What is Fade-Out Rate?

A fade-out rate refers to how quickly a pigment or individual colour component breaks down and fades in the skin over time.

Not all pigments fade at the same speed. Some colourants are more stable and remain visible for longer, while others may gradually diminish more quickly due to factors such as UV exposure, the body's immune response, skincare products, and natural skin regeneration.

This is why pigment formulation is so important. If a pigment contains colourants with significantly different fade-out rates, one colour may disappear faster than another, potentially leading to unwanted colour shifts as the tattoo ages. Professionally balanced pigment systems are formulated to help colours fade more harmoniously and maintain a more predictable appearance throughout the life of the tattoo.

Understanding fade-out rates is also one reason why artists should be cautious about manually adding warmth to pigments. While adding a warm modifier may seem like a solution in the short term, the added colour may not fade at the same rate as the original pigment formulation. Over time, this can contribute to unexpected healed colours or colour shifts. In many cases, it is preferable to select a professionally formulated pigment that has been balanced by the manufacturer, rather than creating a custom mix that may alter the long-term fade characteristics of the pigment.

Our Microblading Creme Collection is already pre-modified for microblading procedures with the correct balance of colourants for a better fade-out rate. See Microblade Creme' Collection

PMU Device Questions

From machine selection and technique, explore expert answers to the questions artists ask most about PMU equipment and performance.

Answers to Your Most Common PMU Device Questions

What should I consider when buying a PMU machine?

When selecting a PMU machine, we recommend considering a number of factors beyond just the price. The size and weight of the handpiece can have a significant impact on comfort, grip, and control, especially during longer procedures.

Machine performance is equally important. Features such as stroke length, RPM (speed), and how smoothly the needle moves through the skin can affect pigment implantation and overall procedure outcomes. Some lower-cost machines may have limited RPM ranges or produce a less consistent needle movement, making it more difficult to achieve smooth, even saturation.

It's also worth considering needle compatibility and the range of needle configurations available for the device. A quality PMU machine should provide smooth, consistent performance, minimize unnecessary skin trauma, and support a variety of techniques and procedures.

What machine speed should I use for powder brows?

There is no single machine speed that works for every powder brow procedure. The ideal speed depends on the device, needle configuration, technique, and the client's skin type.

For powder brows, the goal is to create soft, even pixel placement while achieving consistent saturation without overworking the skin.

Machines such as the Dragonhawk Mast series can produce beautiful results when used correctly, but often rely more heavily on the artist's hand speed and technique. Advanced PMU devices like the Nouveau Contour SMART and IQ are specifically designed for permanent makeup and offer greater precision, consistency, and control, helping artists achieve more predictable implantation and healed results.

Pat Shibley recommends focusing less on a specific speed setting and more on how the pigment is being implanted into the skin. Proper technique, saturation, and skin response are ultimately more important than the number displayed on the machine.

Do all PMU machines use the same needles?

No. While many modern PMU machines use universal cartridge needles, not all devices are compatible with every needle brand or cartridge system.

Some machines are designed to work with universal cartridges, giving artists a wide range of needle options. Others, particularly advanced PMU devices such as Nouveau Contour machines, use proprietary needle systems that are specifically engineered for that device's performance, precision, and safety standards.

Before purchasing needles, it's important to verify compatibility with your machine. Using the correct needle system helps ensure proper fit, consistent pigment implantation, and optimal machine performance.

What is the best PMU machine for beginners?

The best PMU machine for beginners is one that offers consistent performance, adjustable speed settings, ergonomic design, and reliable needle compatibility. Many artists choose digital devices that allow precise control for brows, eyeliner, lips, and paramedical procedures.

Recomendation

Beginner: Dragonhawk Devices

Advanced: Nouveau Contour Machines

Is a more expensive PMU machine worth it?

We recommend looking beyond the price tag and focusing on how the machine performs in the skin. While an experienced artist can create beautiful results with many different devices, advanced PMU machines are designed to provide greater precision, consistency, and control, helping artists achieve more predictable pigment implantation and healed results.

Pat has worked with a variety of PMU devices throughout her career and favors the Nouveau Contour system because it was specifically engineered for permanent makeup. The precision of the handpiece, consistent needle movement, adjustable settings, and reliable performance across different skin types allow artists to focus on technique rather than compensating for machine limitations.

Ultimately, the best machine is one that supports consistent implantation, minimizes trauma to the skin, and helps the artist achieve predictable healed results for their clients.

Does my PMU machine affect healed results?

Yes. Pat Shibley teaches that healed results are influenced by a combination of pigment selection, technique, needle choice, and machine performance. A quality PMU device helps deliver consistent needle movement and pigment implantation, allowing artists to work more efficiently while minimizing unnecessary trauma to the skin. When paired with proper technique, the right machine can help support more predictable and consistent healed results.

PMU Needle Questions

From needle configurations and diameters and technique, explore expert answers to the questions artists ask most about PMU needles and performance.

What is the difference between a liner and shader needle?

The difference between a liner and shader needle goes beyond the needle configuration itself.

Liner needles are often manufactured with smaller diameters and longer tapers, creating a more concentrated point of implantation. This allows pigment to be implanted more precisely and can produce sharper pixels, finer details, and crisp hairstrokes.

Shader needles are designed to distribute pigment over a larger area. They are often paired with larger diameters and configurations that create softer implantation, making them ideal for powder brows, lips, and other shading techniques where a more diffused, blended result is desired.

In general, liner needles create more concentrated implantation, while shader needles create softer saturation and broader pigment distribution.

Are all PMU needles the same?

No. PMU needles vary in diameter, taper, configuration, quality, and intended use. Even needles that appear similar can perform very differently in the skin.

Factors such as needle diameter, taper length, and configuration influence how pigment is implanted, the level of saturation achieved, and the healed result. Some needles are designed for precise implantation and detailed work, while others are better suited for soft shading and colour packing.

Choosing the right needle is an important part of the procedure, as it can affect everything from skin trauma and pigment retention to the overall healed appearance of the tattoo.

What is a universal cartridge?

A universal cartridge is a needle cartridge designed to fit a wide range of compatible PMU and tattoo machines rather than a single proprietary device.

Universal cartridges allow artists to choose from different needle brands, diameters, tapers, and configurations while using the same machine. This provides greater flexibility when selecting needles for different techniques and procedures.

However, not all PMU machines use universal cartridges. Some advanced PMU devices use proprietary needle systems that are specifically engineered for the machine's performance, safety, and precision. Always check your machine's compatibility before purchasing needles or contact us to find out which needles are best suited for your machine.

How do I know if a needle is compatible with my machine?

The easiest way to determine compatibility is to check whether your machine uses universal cartridges or a proprietary needle system.

Many PMU machines are designed to work with universal cartridges, while others require needles that are specifically manufactured for that device. Using an incompatible needle can affect machine performance, needle stability, and pigment implantation.

If you're unsure, consult your machine manufacturer's specifications or contact us before purchasing needles. Choosing the correct needle system helps ensure smooth operation, consistent performance, and predictable results in the skin.

How does needle diameter affect healed results?

Needle diameter can have a significant impact on how pigment is implanted and how the procedure heals. Smaller diameter needles create a more concentrated point of implantation, which can result in sharper pixels, greater colour concentration, and more defined healed results.

Larger diameter needles tend to distribute pigment over a broader area, creating softer saturation and a more diffused appearance. When combined with shader configurations, they are often used to achieve soft powder effects and less concentrated colour placement.

Needle diameter should always be considered alongside taper, configuration, machine, and technique, as all of these factors work together to influence the final healed result.